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HOUR BLOG

Time Tellers

Welcome to Gilt Hour, where every tick of the clock tells a story.

Whether you're a seasoned horologist, a collector chasing the rarest treasures, or someone enchanted by the artistry of a beautifully crafted timepiece, this is your space to explore the fascinating world of watches.

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The Constellation and the Return of Luxury

10/16/2025 12:45

Matteo Barbetti

Discovering Treasures,

The Constellation and the Return of Luxury

Uncover the secret behind the Constellation's 'claws'. Discover how the Ref. 168.0075 and its visible Calibre 1111 redefined luxury watchmaking. Dive in!

When one looks at this particular Omega Constellation, they are not merely observing a timepiece. We are, of course, talking about the celebrated Manhattan line, whose triumph helped redefine the concept of sporty luxury throughout the 1980s and 1990s.

A Design that Broke the Mould: The ‘Claws’

 

The feature that immediately captures the eye is the unmistakable set of ‘claws’ (griffes) that grip the yellow gold bezel, positioned at 3 and 9 o’clock. When they were introduced in 1982, their function was primarily technical: they ensured better water resistance by holding the sapphire crystal firmly pressed against the case. Over time, these claws have become the Constellation’s most iconic visual hallmark, a design stroke that gives the watch an almost sculptural quality,
 

The Engine of Excellence: Certified Precision

 

References such as the Ref. 168.0075 are powered by the Omega Calibre 1111 (or its close sibling, the 1120). This is no ordinary calibre; it is based on the highly reliable ETA 2892-A2 architecture, but extensively personalised and, crucially, certified as a Chronometer (COSC). The inscription on the dial, Chronometer Automatic, is more than just a luxury status symbol: it is the official guarantee that the movement has passed stringent precision tests across various positions and temperatures, testifying to its superior dependability, with a power reserve of around 42 hours.
 

Rolex 16234 with diamonds

Details that Narrate a History of Accuracy

 

Every Constellation carries a profound legacy. Unlike the older models, which featured a solid caseback with the iconic embossed Observatory medallion, this generation, including many 168.0075 variants, offered a transparent sapphire caseback. This was a deliberate choice by Omega, a proud declaration that their mechanical movements were a technical masterpiece worthy of display, signifying the era's shift back toward visible mechanics.
 

A Neo-Vintage Icon

 

The Constellation we admire today, with its classic dimensions (around 35–36 mm) and its perfectly judged balance between steel and yellow gold, is a magnificent example of a ‘neo-vintage’ watch. It is an elegant choice for anyone seeking a piece with an unmistakable design, sophisticated mechanics, and a rich history of triumph—a true bridge between traditional high watchmaking and modern aesthetics.

Join us as we dive deep into the craftsmanship, history, and innovation that make timekeeping an art form. Your journey through the world of watches starts here—where every hour is golden.